Because the water can also rise behind barrier plasters or sealing slurries upstairs.
Capillary moisture
The capillary water moistens the masonry and could rise from the foundation area to the upper floors of the house.
The more porous the masonry, the more water can be transported per day up.
The thicker the wall, the more water can be transported up.
No, it even impedes evaporation and the water can rise so unhindered.
No, the water can evaporate because the plasters have a larger pore volume due to the special additives, but it does not prevent the water from penetrating into the masonry and rising.
The penetrating water is always slightly acidic, as it always contains some carbonic acid. It dissolves small amounts of lime from the masonry mortar. From the water-insoluble limestone, becomes the carbonic acid water-soluble calcium bicarbonate. The capillaries then transport the lime water to the wall surface where the water evaporates. Since the calcium bicarbonate has existed only in water, the water-insoluble limestone forms on drying wall again. This will then remain as a white deposit on the wall.
Yes, but that does show that the wall is wet and in constant decline. The lime comes from the mortar in which it was used as a binder for the sand.
It becomes more and more porous over the years and the larger pores increase water transport. As a result, more lime is dissolved and the water transport is further increased. An undesireable cycle.
Just use a fingernail or a toothpick to scratch some mortar out of joint. Should that succeed, action is needed
Provide adequate ventilation and air exchange first. Approximately 3-6 months and stop rising damp and crosswise-moisture.
When the water flows out of the wall or puddles form in the basement. Mostly occurs when water has accumulated in the former excavation and water can flow through small channels, for example missing mortar through the wall.
No, these should be fundamentally differentiated. Whether the causes of puddles are condensation or pressurized water, they can be easily distinguished. Pressurized water occurs at specific points. It is not weather dependent. Condensation, on the other hand, only forms on warm and humid days. The wall is then completely affected.
Yes, it can even negatively affect your health. Eg by mold growth.
Do not panic in the case of small spots. Our immune system copes well with low mold load. However, with real mold lawns you should take counter measures at short notice.
The fungus requires more than 15% moisture for its growth, otherwise fungus does not grow. A hydrophobic sealing of its walls reduces the equilibrium moisture content to less than 2% down to 0.6%. however, in addition to hydrophobing, the brown rot fungus should be killed. If water penetrates the wall at another point, the fungus would begin to grow again immediately.
Yes, the wall retains its natural thermal insulation and you will not experience problems with condensation. The masonry is water-repellent impregnated without clogging or constricting the pores.
Common causes of penetrating and rising damp are missing or broken horizontal and outside seals.
Safe application from many years of experience and successful use in many objects. With clever craftsmanship, you can easily install yourself a capillary barrier against the rising damp or a surface barrier against existing crosswise-moisture from the ground. After the barrier has completely formed, the masonry becomes an impenetrable water barrier. The walls become permanently dry and there are new possibilities of using the space. Moldy smell, unpleasant indoor climate or mildew are a thing of the past. The first choice, even under the most difficult conditions, tried and tested over many years and effectively against rising damp and crosswise-moisture.
If you have outdoor blinds, it is enough to let them down but it is not necessary. If the windows are reasonably clean (no construction site sand), it is sufficient to wipe off the hydrophobing with a cloth. Otherwise the sand residue from construction can cause scratches. Positive side effect: You don’t need to clean the windows for the next few weeks, the windows would be nano coated with hydrophobing. For large windows, we recommend to cover the windows with painter foil.
No problem, that is dried 4Everdry-Perfect. Tip: Easy removal with a household cleaner.
No, you can simply impregnate with 4Everdry-Perfect.
*If you ONLY impregnate the window sills, you should keep a cardboard underneath so that there are no runners on the facade. If you do not do it, the runners will eventually become visible as the unimpregnated facade becomes dirty after a while.
A ladder is enough for a normal house.
No it does not matter, but it makes sense for the look.
No, the material penetrates deep enough into the facade.
Yes, but then you need to apply primer to the places where you want to fix. As the facade is now water repellent, the mortar does not last and would fall out again and again. You should then subsequently re-impregnate the newly grouted areas with 4Everdry-Perfect in about 2-3 weeks.
2-3 weeks so that the joints are completely dried out (hydrogenated) otherwise they become sandy.
For example, if throwing a glass of water on the wall is not creating a puddle on the floor, but the wall is absorbing it, then wall is breathable.
No.
Sandblasting, shotblasting or with a paint stripper.
We recommend before the hydrophobing. We advise you to wash off painted facades beforehand and to impregnate them after drying.
No, it should not rain for 2 days to allow facade to dry.
Yes, as long as the facade was not wet before and the water in the wall is frozen. Otherwise the 4Everdry-Perfect can not be distributed.
Eg latex paints.
Yes.
In the original dry state of the facade, the removal of the moisture in the room is ensured by the outer wall. The wind creates a suction on the facade. As a result, negative pressure pulls the moisture out of the rooms of the house through the capillaries of the outer wall to the outside. Due to rough weather conditions (rain, driving rain) moisture can heavly penetrate into the masonry preventing the evaporation phase. If it rains frequently, the absorbent masonry absorbs a lot of moisture and the evaporation phase is constantly interrupted. The moisture in the masonry continues to increase and migrates inwards. The building material pores are filled with water and the removal of the moisture in the room is no longer guaranteed.
This scenario can continue so far that the moisture continues to move inward. Over time, the wall is so soggy and the moisture hits the inside surface of the wall. This results in a poor indoor climate, high humidity, fertile condition for mold growth, health risks and damage to the original thermal insulation.
To prevent this described scenario, the wall needs to be impregnated. The highly breathable impregnating agent prevents moisture (rain, driving rain) from penetrating the masonry. The masonry remains permanently dry. The original state of the dry wall is restored and permanently significantly improved. Full use of the rooms, comfortable indoor climate conditions, recovery of thermal insulation, cost savings.
